Why Local 705 Covers Every Costume Department Role Except the Designer

A film’s costume work is split between a designer who plans the wardrobe and a crew that dresses, repairs and tracks the costumes through the shoot. In the United States, the two halves also sit in different unions.

The structure below covers the roles the sources list, the titles they use, and the membership paths into Local 705, which Wikipedia says covers every department position except the costume designer. Local 705 describes itself as the largest union of costume artisans and craftspeople in film and television.

The Costume Designer Leads the Department

The costume designer heads the wardrobe department. Wrapbook says the designer works with the director, the production designer and the director of photography to build a wardrobe plan that supports the story and tone. On complex productions, the guide says, the role can start early in pre-production.

Wikipedia’s costume designer article describes the creative work in more detail. Designers use texture and color to balance each scene, and to enhance a character’s personality and show changing social status or time period through clothing and accessories. The job calls for pattern development, draping, drafting, textiles, fashion history and historical costuming.

The Wikipedia article names a wider set of collaborators than Wrapbook does. It says the designer works alongside the director, scenic, lighting and sound designers, and may also collaborate with hair stylists, wig masters and makeup artists. It also says the designer must consult the director and the set and lighting designers so that the parts of the production design fit together.

Garments also face practical limits. Clothing must let the performer move as the role requires, hold up to repeated wear and washing, and avoid damage when the actor performs the director’s blocking. Designers may distort or enhance the body, but only within the director’s vision.

On Wikipedia’s film crew navbox, the costume designer sits under Wardrobe, apart from art department roles such as the production designer and art director.

Wrapbook has the designer develop the wardrobe plan and the wardrobe supervisor handle day-to-day logistics.

Local 705 Membership Path
Local 705’s membership page says one route requires 30 days as a costumer at a signatory costume house, and that the Industry Experience Roster days that route qualifies for expire after one year.

Supervisors and Set Costumers Run the Daily Work

The wardrobe supervisor, also called the costume supervisor, runs daily wardrobe logistics. Wrapbook lists the job as overseeing costumers and dressers, tracking continuity, keeping garments maintained and organized, and handling receipts, rentals and returns with the production.

Set costumers represent wardrobe on the set. They watch performers and make quick fixes, such as small repairs or collar adjustments, to keep the costumes consistent. Wrapbook calls the work fast-paced and says it requires quick thinking.

The costume coordinator handles the department’s administration. Wrapbook says the role tracks purchases, schedules fittings and makes sure garments are labeled and logged, linking the creative and logistical needs of the team.

The shopper visits stores and rental houses to source clothing and accessories. The role calls for taste, communication skills and physical stamina. Wrapbook says constant time and money limits can make the shopper carry the most stressful day-to-day responsibilities in the department.

Tailors build or alter garments for fit, movement and finish, from vintage repairs to custom uniforms. Wrapbook says a production that sources mostly vintage or costume-house pieces may need only one or two tailors. Wardrobe-heavy productions, such as The Favourite, may need an entire costume shop of tailors.

Local 892 Covers the Design Side and Local 705 the Rest

The Costume Designers Guild is Local 892 of the International Alliance of Theatrical and Stage Employees. The guild is based in Burbank, California, and lists three membership categories: costume designer, assistant costume designer and costume illustrator. Its homepage lists the 26th CDGA awards.

Wikipedia says Local 705 covers every costume department position except the costume designer. Its list of classifications includes costume supervisors, key costumers, costumers, tailors and seamstresses, agers and dyers, cutter/fitters, costume house employees and commercial costumers.

Wikipedia places every department position except the costume designer under Local 705, but the guild also lists assistant designers and illustrators. The guild’s categories cover design, assistant design and illustration. Wikipedia’s list of Local 705 classifications covers the supervisory, set, fitting and workroom roles that carry out the plan.

Wrapbook ties the number of tailors to how much of a wardrobe comes from vintage shops and costume houses.

The designer develops the wardrobe plan, and the supervisor handles day-to-day logistics.

How a Costumer Qualifies for Local 705 Membership

Local 705 is part of IATSE and is affiliated with the AFL-CIO and the CLC. Its home page says the union has operated since 1937 and lists a Valley Village, California, address. The union says membership brings wage scales, employment hours, safe working conditions, and health and pension benefits.

One route requires 30 days as a costumer at a signatory costume house. The costume house sends a letter to Local 705 listing start and finish dates, days worked and classification. An optional separate letter goes to CSATF for the Industry Experience Roster, which carries a higher initiation fee. Those roster days expire after one year.

Other routes include 100 days within three years on theatrical features or dramatic television, union and non-union. Live television requires 30 days under a qualifying contract. A major professional theatre or opera house route requires 200 days over three years.

Low- and mid-budget streaming and music video work needs 30 days, counted within 365 days for custom-made costumers or 730 days for finished costumers. Commercial work needs 30 days within 365 days for Television Commercial Roster placement.

Completing an approved training program, such as one the page names as Hollywood CPR, can qualify a person without working under the contract. The page says its DEI initiatives are still under development.

On the streaming and commercial routes, the payroll company’s Employment Verification Letter goes to CSATF, which then sends further instructions. Applications are not given out on request, and one is mailed only after CSATF approves the days for the relevant roster.

What Applicants Submit and Pay

Local 705 applicants pay an application fee, half of the initiation fee and any accrued permit fees with the application. The remaining initiation fee and permit fees are due before a member is sworn in. This article gives no amounts for those fees.

Local 705 applications also require three recommendation letters from members in good standing.

The Costume Designers Guild’s FAQ page says applicants need a completed PDF application, a photo of equal size and clarity and three signed letters from people who know their work, such as past employers, directors, line producers or fellow costume designers. Letters from academics, deans or counselors are not accepted.

Costume designer and assistant designer applicants also need independent credits, such as a deal memo, crew list or call sheet. The FAQ says IMDB credits do not count. A complete application is generally processed in about one week, and applicants with a job starting soon can request rush processing.

The FAQ lists entrance fees and totals. A costume designer’s entrance fee is $6,500, with a total due of $7,028.84. An assistant costume designer’s fee is $3,750, with a total of $4,201.45. An illustrator’s is $3,500, with a total of $3,887.19. The totals include first-quarter dues, a $100 IATSE processing fee and a $25 sketch stamp.

Quarterly dues are due on January 1, April 1, July 1 and October 1. Accepted applicants are not active members until payment is received. Credit card installments carry a 3% convenience fee.

Live theatre and similar work is covered by other locals and is not accepted as qualifying credit for the guild.